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WEDNESDAY, FEB 20, 2013

Grateful escape

She sits in the middle of her Los Angeles restaurant, piling a big spoonful of kimchi, tofu, and pork filling into a damp dumpling skin. Her fingers work deftly, folding the thin sheet into neat corner pleats. Press, pinch, fold over. Repeat. The tray quickly fills up with plump, flour-dusted parcels.

â€œTheyâ€™re a blend of North and South,â€ Kim Jung Yi said of her dumplings, her nimble fingers never stopping. â€œI try to tailor to Southern tastes by including one or two ingredients they like, but the recipe is Northern.â€

By north, she means her home country, North Korea. She fluffs her fat kimchi dumplings with minced tofuâ€”North Korean styleâ€”but also adds handfuls of sweet potato starch noodles, a popular ingredient in South Korean-style dumplings. ...

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